Catch a whiff of Rotorua’s sulphur-rich air and you’ve already had an introduction to NZ’s most dynamic geothermal area. The Maori revered this place, naming one of the most spectacular springs Wai-O-Tapu (Sacred Waters). Today 34% of the population is Maori, with cultural performances and traditional hangi (steam-cooked banquets) as big an attraction as the landscape itself.

Rotorua, a town set on its namesake lake on New Zealand's North Island, is renowned for its geothermal activity and Maori culture. In Te Puia’s Whakarewarewa Valley, there are bubbling mud pools and the 30m-tall Pohutu Geyser, which erupts many times daily. It’s also home to a living Maori village and the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, with traditional wood carving and weaving schools.

The pervasive eggy odour hasn't prevented ‘Sulphur City’ becoming one of the most touristy spots on the North Island. Some say this steady trade has seduced the town into resting on its laurels while its famous attractions perpetually hike up their prices. It's certainly true that Rotorua's dining and bar scene lags well behind nearby Tauranga and Taupo. While the urban fabric of ‘RotoVegas’ isn't particularly appealing, where else can you see steam casually wafting out of drains and mud boiling in public parks?